"PURA VIDA!"

Costa Rica in a nutshell?

"Pura Vida in paradise!"

Why?

Find it out below! :)

OUR HIGHLIGHTS

Volcan Arenal and La Fortuna

  Volcan Arenal, Arenal 1968

In the shadow of Volcan Arenal you can find the lively mountain village La Fortuna and some beautiful hiking trails.

The Arenal 1968 trail leads you through the deep jungle and over a lava flow trail from 1968's eruption. You can combine both trails - the Lava Flow 1968 and the Trail Forest 1968 - in one day.

You will get a 360° view over the volcan Arenal and a nice viewpoint.

Arenal 1968 is a private reserve, so you will have to pay an entrance fee.

From La Fortuna to the entrance of Arenal 1968 it is about 16 kilometer. We went by bicycle. If you don't have your own transportation you can go by taxi or shuttle bus.

Another beautiful option is Mirador El Silencio. Its lesser known than Arenal 1968, so it receives less traffic. You also have to pay an entrance fee. There are several trails to chose from, with stunning views over the volcano.

Arenal 1968 and Mirador El Silencio border each other.

In the region there are a lot of option to soak into a nice hot spring, after the long hikes. We chose the local experience, and went to the free hot springs in Rio Chollin. The spot is located opposite the entrance of the Tabacón resort. A gravel path leads to a hot flowing river with all bubbling pools crafted by nature. If you go by dark you will see lots of locals coming here and gather with candles and some beers.

Do not miss out on the Mistico hanging bridges in the Mistico Park Hanging Bridges. It is located about 20 kilometers outside La Fortuna.

You will walk about 3 kilometers and over 16 hanging bridges through a beautiful rainforest. It is really a magical experience!

We were lucky to have clear skies the days we were in La Fortuna, so the views over the volcan Arenal were just absolutely beautiful!

All the trails are well signposted, so we decided to hike each trail self-guided.

After La Fortuna we cycled to Nuevo Arenal. It is a nice little town located between beautiful Lake Arenal and the Tilarán Mountain Range. There is a good German Bakery with lots of vegan treats. 

We camped at the shore Lake Arenal - the only time we did wild camping on this trip - and saw a stunning sunset.

Impressive junlge on the Mirador El Silencio hike

Mistico Park Hanging Bridges

Tenorio Volcano National Park and Rio Celeste

  Tenorio Volcano, View from Tenorio Volcano National Park

From La Fortuna and Nuevo Arenal we cycled on through the Guanacaste Mountain Range to reach Rio Celeste and the Tenorio Volcano National Park. It is a challenging route with lots of steep climbs. But the views are so rewarding. It feels like cycling in one big rain forest. We have never seen such big plants! It is also really hot!

We stayed in Camping La Aurora, a really nice family campground with unbelievable beautiful views over Volcano Tenorio.

From the campground it was only 3 kilometers by bicycle to reach the entrance of the Volcán Tenorio National Park. You have to pay an entrance fee and make reservations in advance via this website:

https://serviciosenlinea.sinac.go.cr/

You can make the reservation on the spot, but we think it is better to do it in advance. We did it upon arrival, but bad internet connections make it quite a hassle to be honest.

Once in the park, there is one beautiful trail to follow. It is a moderate hike, about six kilometers, which follows the special azure blue Rio Celeste until you reach the amazing waterfall of Rio Celeste. Volcán Tenorio is a dormant volcano, but there is still a lot of geothermal activity to be seen along the trail. You'll also pass a mirador (lookout) to enjoy a grand view of Volcán Tenrorio. Another beautiful spot on the trail is Laguna Azul (Blue Lagoon). The end of the trail is quite a sight: El Tenidero. This the place where two rivers meet and the special colour of Rio Celeste is formed due to the mixture of minerals.

You can go with a guide if you want to learn more about the special plant and animal species. However, the trail itself is easy to follow, so you can also chose to go without a guide.

In the National Park it is not allowed to swim in Rio Celeste, to protect the special blue colour of the river. But outside the park there are some swimming options. We went to Rio Celeste free pool, a popular spot also with locals. It is an absolute beautiful place to hang out and refresh. The water is really cold.

Waterfall of Rio Celeste, Volcán Tenorio National park

Rio Celeste, Volcán Tenorio National park

El Rincon de la Vieja National Park

  El Rincon de la Vieja National Park, Las Pailas Sector

Rincon de la Vieja is one of Costa Rica's most active volcanoes. To visit the park, you can choose the main entrance at Las Pailas sector or the lesser visited entrance at Santa Maria sector.

You will also have to pay an entrance fee and make reservations in advance. Also here you can do it on the spot, there is a good internet connection so making a reservation went a lot easier.

The first day we arrived late at the entrance of the Santa Maria sector. We slept on the campground of the national park. The next morning we hiked three kilometers through a beautiful forest to amazingly blue aguas termales (hot springs). It is not allowed to swim in the hot springs anymore to protect the special blue colour.

Later that day we cycled on to a camp ground closer to Las Pailas Sector. We stopped at Rio Negro hot springs. Rio Negro hot springs are attached to Hacienda Guachipelin. There are 10 thermal pools rich in minerals and surrounded by tropical forest. The 10 pools all differ in temperature. The Rio Negro runs in the middle, so you can cool of in the cold water of the river. Take a volcanic mud bath, let it dry, rinse it of in the cold water of the Rio Negro and then relax in one of the hot thermal pools. A lovely experience!

The next day we hiked Sendero las Pailas. It is an easy 3,5 kilometer trail but there are a lot of interesting volcanic activities to be seen: fumeroles and steaming bubbling mud pots. The steam in the sunlight through the trees make it a magical place.

Blue Aguas Termales, El Rincon de la Vieja

Playa Conchal and Brasilito

  Playa Brasilito, Peninsula Nicoya

After Rincon de la Vieja we crossed borders to Nicaruaga. Curious how that went? Check it out here.

After Nicaragua it is time to arrive at the paradise coast of Costa Rica, starting with Playa Conchal on the Peninsula Nicoya! It is a beautiful white-shell beach meeting immense paradise blue waters!

We had an evening stroll during sunset, with wonderful views. Right next to Playa Conchal lies the also stunning Playa Brasilito. Our campspot at Camping Don Julian was situated right on the sand of Playa Brasilito! A topspot!

It is a cosy little family run campground, loved by Costa Ricans who come to spend their weekends here with the whole family.

In the morning we had another swim in the crystal clear and blue waters, jumping in the waves, before cycling on to Tamarindo.

Playa Langosta near Tamarindo

  Playa Langosta, Tamarindo

Tamarindo is a bigger town on the Peninsula Nicoya, with lots of tropical beach and surf vibes. It is very lively, with lots of boutiques and souvenir shops.

We had our best vegan 'casado' ever! Casado is a traditional dish of Costa Rica, with rice, frijoles (beans), fried plantains, advocado and a green salad. Check it out here.

The main attraction for us here is Playa Langosta. After a short stroll through Tamarindo we relaxed all day on Playa Langosta. You can walk or cycle from Tamarindo, but it is far lesser crowdy then Playa Tamarindo.

Playa Marbella

  Playa Marbella, Marbella

Looking for your own paradise beach, away from the crowds of Tamarindo and with the best surf? Playa Marbella is your beach!

We loved it! We ended up staying three nights instead of one. The campground run by Eric right next to the Tiki Hut is a paradise on itself. Large palm trees, sunshine overload and stunning beach views! You can rent boards here.

The little town of Marbella has a supermarket or you can go for drinks and dinner to the Tiki Hut.

Playa Marbella is lined up with palm trees, crystal blue waters and no crowds! Just perfect! Drink rum out of a coconut, relax in a hammock and just enjoy the moment.

Samará

  Camping Los Mangos, Samará

Cycling further on the Peninsula Nicoya we reach Samará. A lively little beach town, easy to stroll around without the crowds of tourists.

Yet again we found a campspot right on the beach, camping Los Mangos.

Step out of your tent/van, rent a board right next door and ride the perfect waves. We spend a lot of time in the water, learning to surf. There are other surfers but the beach is wide enough to share with everybody, which made us feel more at ease in the water trying to catch some nice waves.

Playa San Miguel

  Playa San Miguel, Peninsula Nicoya

Just when you think it can not get any better on the Peninsula Nicoya, Playa San Miguel comes on your way! Paradise found! Think palm trees, white sandy beach, crystal clear and blue water, sun and no people! Really, at Playa San Miguel you will find the most beautiful beach yet to be discovered by the crowds!

We stayed at Surf School San Miguel, a beachfront camping. We were there alone, yet it is the most beautiful camping from our whole journey!

Boards for rent, nobody in the water and the perfect waves. We had the time of our live! We stayed and stayed and stayed and didn't want tot leave.

In the morning we went for a run, then surfed and chilled in the hammock all day long.

There are some nice restaurants in the vicinity and only a little supermarket. There are no ATM's.

Sunset at Playa San Miguel

Camping Don Trino, with a stop in waterfalls Montezuma

  Camping Don Trino

Looking for a true camping experience Tico style? Stay at camping Don Trino! Costa Ricans come here during the weekends and high season to enjoy some time with the family. They bring all kind of inflatables, whole kitchen set ups and good vibes. Impressive red macaws fly over the campground, making a lot of noise. Such a wonderful sight! Don Trino is also a beach front campground, and the water here is really calm.

When cycling from Playa San Miguel to camping Don Trino we passed through Montezuma and Santa Teresa.

We stopped at Montezuma to visit the Montezuma waterfalls. You pay a small entrance fee. You can choose different routes to get to the waterfalls. We only went to the first waterfall and didn't continue to the upper waterfall. The path we did is quite adventurous walking over rocks and climbing up and down. You can take a refreshing swim in the waterfall and following the path you can also take a dip in the pools formed by the river and rocks.

There was also a little market in Montezuma with all locally made products like jewelry and other beautiful things.

Cycling through Santa Teresa was a challenge for us. There is only one small road crossing through Santa Teresa clogged with traffic. Lots of cars and ATV's make it too busy and loud for us. Especially after the calm and quite days on Playa San Miguel we felt the crowds were too much.

We decided not to stay here but to cycle on.

Camping Don Trino was our last stop on the beautiful Peninsula Nicoya! How it was cycling on the Peninsula you can find here. But Peninsula Nicoya is a true paradise!

The next day we cycled to Punta Arenas to take the ferry to Paquera on the mainland of Costa Rica. It takes about 70 minutes. The ferry sails regularly. You can buy the tickets on the spot at the ferry office or reserve online. We took the 09:00 am ferry to have enough time to cycle on from Paquera to Jacó.

Jacó

  View over Jacó at El Miro Viewpoint, Jacó

Arriving in Jacó we had no expectations. But we loved it!

For us it felt like a more authentic and honest Costa Rican city. It is infamous for its party scene, but we didn't notice much of it. It is a popular get-away for Costa Ricans living in the capital San José, since it is only 1,5 hour drive.

And it is also a popular surf destinations. We found here one of the best waves. The wide sandy beach gives room to everybody going out on a board surfing those waves. We decided to stay two nights to give us one more day to enjoy the good surf. You can rent boards right on the beach.

There are also plenty of nice restaurants and fun shops. We had the best vegan burger here.

At night we bought a beer and a snack, went to Playa Jacó and enjoyed a beautiful sunset.

For stunning views over the city you can climb up to Miró viewpoint. It is a short easy hike up to the ruins of El Miro. You get a beautiful view over Jacó and its white sandy beach. The ruins are covered in graffiti. It is a special place. On the hike you can see capuchin monkeys.

Playa Esterillos

  Sunrise at Playa Esterillos

Playa Esterillos is a nice stop between Jacó and Manuel Antonio national park.

There is a small but good supermarket.

The campground 'Las Brisas' felt a bit run down, but the beach made all up for it. There is no possibility to rent a board, so we couldn't surf here.

Beautiful red macaws fly around all over the place.

In the morning before cycling on to Manuel Antonio national park there was a magical sunrise.

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

  Playa Espadilla Sur, Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

Cycling further along the paradise coast line of Costa Rica we come to Manuel Antonio National Park. It is one of the most visited national parks of Costa Rica. So reserve several days or more in advance (closed on Tuesdays!)!

And for good reason! It is absolutely beautiful.

With many stunning beaches and lots of trails to choose from, you can easily spend a whole day in the national park.

There are six trails to explore the national park, in search of the sloth! Scan the trees and take binoculars with you. On the trails you can also encounter Capuchin, howler  and squirrel monkeys as well as deer and other animals.

The different trails to choose from are:

- La Catarata Trail: Located close to the entrance, it is a short tail leading to a small waterfall.

- El Perezoso Trail: A 3,4 km hike parallel to the main trail of the park.

- Punta Catedral Trail: The highlight of the park! Unfortunately the trail was closed when we were there  due to maintenance works.

- Playa Gemelas Trail: A short trail leading to Playa Gemelas. A nice little beach to enjoy a refreshing dip after the hike.

- Mirador Trail: A short trail leading up to a spectacular viewpoint.

- Congo Trail: Connecting Playa Gemelas and the Mirador Trail.

All the trails are well sign posted and easy to moderate to hike. If you want to learn more about the park and its fauna and flora you can go with a guide.

Food is not allowed in the park. There is a restaurant, but a little pricier. Take plenty of water and sunscreen with you! And watch for your bags on the beaches, for the monkeys will try to steal them! :)

The closest town is Quepos. We stayed here in an AirBnB. You can go by car or bus to the entrance of the park. We went by bicycle, which was quite a steep ride.

Outside the park Playa Biesanz is a small cosy beach to hang out. Also Espadilla beach and bordering Playa Playita are just stunning and the sunsets are amazing!

Coconut on Playa Espadilla Sur

Uvita and Dominical

  Sunset at Playa Uvita

Uvita is a small beach town on the pacific coast. The center of the town lies a bit further away from the beach. We stayed on a campground in Bahía, also in Uvita but right next to Playa Uvita.

Playa Uvita is situated in the Marino Ballena National Park, so to get there you will have to pay a small entrance fee. The ticket is valid for the whole day. The park is closed on Mondays, but also then you can access the beach.

Playa Uvita is beautiful, with the jungle and palm trees on one side and the azure waters on the other.

The Marino Ballena National Park and Playa Uvita are beautiful, with a walk to Punta Uvita (the whale tail) an absolute highlight. But watch out for sand flies at sunset! You can only walk to Punta Uvita during low tide.

However, for us the sunset is the highlight here! The reflection of the sunset due to a small layer of water on the sand is magical! So beautiful!

Every year from July to September and from December to March the Marino Ballena National Park becomes the home of the humpback whale. We were there in the beginning of March, so a bit late to see the humpback whales. But there is still a lot of other marine life to be found in the waters, like dolphins. We decided to take a tour anyway and saw a lot of dolphins. A lot of fun! During the tour you can also snorkel to see other marine life. Unfortunately we did not see the humpback whale.

In March 2024 the Envision Festival took place. It is a seven day big party and it seemed really cool. You can only buy tickets for seven days, they don't sell day tickets. So for one day it is too costly! But if you have the time and want to dive in another magical world for seven days, we think it is really worth it.

Before arriving in Uvita we cycled through Dominical. We had a very good vegan lunch here. It is a nice little town, and there was a market with beautiful handmade local products.

Palm Trees at Playa Uvita

Dolphin watching

Palm trees at Playa Uvita

Drake Bay

  Drake Trail, Drake Bay

Bahía Drake, our last stop in Costa Rica before cycling on to Panamá. Curious about Panamá? Check it out here!

To arrive in Drake Bay you need to travel to Sierpe. There you can either choose to take the boat to Drake Bay or as we did take a little ferry in Sierpe to cross the river and then drive on to Drake Bay. If we would have known before we would definitely choose the boat all the way up to Drake Bay instead of cycling there! After the little ferry crossing the road turns into a small dirt road with steep up and down hills. It took us two days to cycle only 30 kilometers, pushing our heavy bikes uphill in the scorching heat!

Luckily when we finally arrived we had a beautiful AirBnB waiting for us, with amazing views over the bay. Watching the sunset with a refreshing drink that the super friendly owners of the AirBnB prepared for us  and some snacks, and all was good again! :)

The next day we hiked a part of the Drake Trail! It is such a beautiful trail. Starting in Drake Bay you cross the river on a small hanging bridge and then you start the hike from one beautiful beach to the other! Such a fun experience. We spend a lot of time chilling at every beach, swimming and sunbathing, so we didn't make it to the end of the trail but it was just too much fun! :)

Drake Bay is also the starting point to visit the Corcovado National Park. A little expensive, so we choose not to visit. But we think it must be realy beautiful. Who knows next time!

No need to say we took the boat back all the way to Sierpe! :)

Beautiful beach on the Drake Trail

Beautiful beach on the Drake Trail

Vegan foodies unite!

  Vegan casado at a road side restaurant

Vegan foodies, let Costa Rica spoil you with the best vegan dishes! Vegan casados, burgers, pastas, pancakes, smoothies or coffees with almond milk! Lots of different fruits! Hungry, anyone?

'Sodas' are good and cheap restaurants where you can find tasty local dishes! We had our best vegan casado in Tamarindo, in soda Buen Comer!

We had the best vegan lunch with a spectacular view over Volcán Arenal, after finishing the Arenal 1969 hike!

When cycling from Volcan Tenorio to El Rincon de la Vieja we stopped at Café La Semilla for breakfast. What a treat! A full plate of pancakes, fruits and good coffee to keep us going until lunch!

Ta

Go Vegan!

Our experience cycling through Costa Rica

  Cycling the Peninsula Nicoya

We started our cycling journey in the highlands of Costa Rica! Let us tell you, come prepared as it is no joke! The roads are steep and the sun is present. Most roads are in good condition and we felt most drivers are really considered for cyclist, but the steep uphills and the heat make it a challenging experience.

The views however are so beautiful! You can also spot a lot of animals. We saw macaws, tucans, a sloth and many more.

Our favorite part is cycling on the Peninsula Nicoya. Prepare for dirt roads, lots of gravel, steep uphills and a lot of fun! Little traffic, refreshing dips in the ocean, fun places to visit and an overall off road feeling that makes you happy. Peninsula Nicoya is also the favorite place for many mountain bikers. We made some friends going along. :)

Cycling along the coast line is fun, fun and more fun! So many beautiful places and national parks along the way, the sea side always in the vicinity for refreshing dips. Traffic is not too bad and there is a breeze  to cool off!

And well.. as we said before, consider to take the boat all the way up to Drake Bay instead of cycling the (only) 30 kilometers from the river crossing in Sierpe to Drake Bay. The road is in terrible condition, too steep to cycle so you will end up pushing your heavy bikes more than you can cycle and the heat only makes it worse. It took us two full days to arrive. If you are up for a challenge, prepare beforehand. Take enough water and food, because it is pretty remote and you will not encounter lots of cars, let alone houses or shops.

Conquering the steep roads in the highlands

Refreshing smoothies on the Peninsula Nicoya

On the road to Drake Bay

Up to Panamá!

  On the road to Drake Bay

But what a journey! Pura Vida, Costa Rica!